Sunday, July 21, 2013

Johannesburg day two: brunch, etc.

My second day in Johannesburg began as every Sunday should as far as I'm concerned, that is, with brunch.

 In Cape Town, my comrades and I have been taking a once weekly class about South African media taught by a lovely Capetonian couple named Chantel and Andre. Hearing that I was traveling to Joburg alone, Andre insisted that I get in touch with Anwar, a good friend of his.

 Anwar and his girlfriend Jolene came to get me from my hostel--how lovely it was to be driven around by someone else--and took me to a spot downtown that completely surprised me. We parked in an industrial area under a freeway overpass and approached a graffitied warehouse building but stepped inside and were in a hip, bustling marketplace that makes Seattle's Pike Place look sleepy and lame by comparison.

Jolene and Anwar were kind enough to treat me to a decadent crepe while we perused booths of cool art, vintage clothing, anti-Zuma posters, and hipster cupcakes.


 When they returned me to my hostel I hopped in my rental car again--an act of great bravery--and headed out toward Johannesburg's number one attraction, the Apartheid Museum.

GPS and I had differing opinions as to where one can turn legally, what "keep left means," and how to get onto a freeway, but we made it there. The Apartheid Museum, a memorial to one of the greatest social justice atrocities in recent history, sits on the campus of a huge casino and theme park complex. As you walk in past huge pillars reading "freedom" and "equality," you can hear the shrieks of young children on roller coasters nearby--another form of liberation, I guess?


The museum takes about two full hours to see. It's ends up being a lot of reading, but it's set up effectively. Chillingly, as you enter the museum, one door is marked "whites," the other, "non-whites," and you can only go through one.


I thought I would learn about South African history, and I did, but I was also amazed how much I already knew, that is, how much I've learned in the past two months.


After the museum it was late afternoon which in South Africa I have lovingly come to know as wine time. All the guidebooks say that the neighborhood of Melville is the place to be for trendiness and nightlife, so GPS and I headed that way. As promised, Melville was a bastion of trendy restaurants and bars--though I should note that almost every restaurant and bar that I haven been to in this country has been way cooler than the average LA eatery/drinkery. Sorry LA.

My Joburg native coworker in Cape Town had suggested a spot in the neighborhood, but the "Liberation Cafe" across the street looked more my speed. There, I drank wine, watched people salsa dance, and. Was joined yet again by Anwar and Jolene, who were very kind in their willingness to spend time with me.

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